We usually attribute the impenetrability of the Orient to a 'Fu Manchu' web of secrecy,
manipulation and lotus scented illusion. But in Thailand nothing is hidden or secret, or even subtle, and the 'lotus scent' assaulting one's rational faculties is most probably cheap perfumed fabric softener used in a commercial laundry.
Contrary to belief, the Thais will always tell you the truth straight to your face, that is, they will tell you the truth provided you do not expect what you consider a straight answer to a straight question. In that case they will not answer, but instead tell you it is not good for you to know too much.
In fact, to the Thai mind, this is as straight an answer as the arrow of truth ever flies. However, it is conditioned by the always acute awareness of social relationships, hence it relates only obliquely to one's question but directly to either one's person or the acitivity of questioning itself.
To save inquisitive travelers speculation and headache, therefore, let me reduce all Thai answers to their common message: "You are a farang, all you need to know is your place in that capacity." (The word Farang is a corruption of the word ' France' or francaise, the same way chien became 'Cheyenne' in American English. Its meaning is thus akin to our 'frenchie', but the Thais use it to denote any foreigner, especially non-Asians and those with white skin.)
In Thailand , as in most Asian countries, the highest importance is attributed to knowing one's place. In the case of a farang, his place is to remain a non-descript, ignorant outsider who can never aspire to beThai, and who is here for the sole reason of contributing to Thailand's economy. This basic perception is in no way dressed up or hidden in Thailand, but that seems to be the exact reason why it is so endlessly confusing to the farang mind which never tires of misinterpreting that famous Thai. . . smirk. The Thai have long understood that the best place to hide a truth is in plain sight.
In the Thai news, the most popular term for those who do not know their place and duty is 'troublemaker'. In Thailand, if a person complains, or especially if he criticizes his social superiors, he is a 'troublemaker'.
This applies equally to a farang who refuses to accept he has to pay ten times more for a service than the Thai national standing next to him and, say, a Thai environmental activist who argues against a government project. The merit of one's reasoning or possible moral high ground is trumped in each case by the counter argument that the protester is a 'troublemaker', i.e. does not know his place in society.
The protester's individual case is insignificant compared to the fact that he has torn the very fabric of orderly co-existence and thereby threatens to disturb the smooth running of daily business.
All inquiry that is seen in this way as commiting a faux pas against the established social order is a harmful act of 'troublemaking' and need not be considered on its individual merit in the democratic Kingdom of Thailand.
Any similarities between these detached academic observations relating to an alien and mysterious culture and the Kingdom of AIDS, Inc. are found only in the eyes of troublemakers.
Claus Jensen is a Dane living in Thailand
where he is able to eke out a meager but sustainable
existence as a
martial arts instructor primarily because he is much
taller than the average Thai,
and can overpower
most ordinarily accomplished
Thai boxing teachers provided they are half his size and twice his age. (Hank)
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